Kliot Tapestry Loom

Box description
Box description

My new Kliot Tapestry Loom arrived from Lacis.  I watched a video of this loom in use on YouTube.  I was surprised when I read in the comment sections that someone couldn’t figure out how to put it together.  If they can’t figure out how to assemble this loom, I have no idea how they ever learned to weave.  I was amazed how smooth the wood is.  I didn’t find a single spot that needed additional sanding, so rare.  There are some nice features on this loom: A simple warping frame on the back, a shedding device, removable legs, easy to tension upper and lower beams and round tension knobs.  It seems very sturdy too.

All the pieces of the Loom - out of the box
All the pieces of the Loom – out of the box

It measures 22 inches wide from outside edge to outside edge, and 30 inches tall.  It advertises the widest possible weaving width at 20 inches.  A warp that is 20 inches wide will completely fill the loom; while 20 inches may be possible, 18 is more realistic.   Since the warp can wrap around the loom It can weave a longer length than the looms height.  On the video they mention 56 inches as a maximum length, the instructions claim 60 inches, and the box claims, “virtually any length”.  56 inches seems reasonable, this gives 4 inches of space to tension the warp properly.  I’ll need replacement elastics, these are the parts that will wear out.  I don’t want that to happen in the middle of a project.  It’s good to have spares on hand of any part that wears or stretches.  They call them, “size 64 elastics”.  After looking them up on Google, They seem like common rubber bands.  I’ll have to pay the office supply a visit.  The elastics are for the shedding device and hold the legs on.  The legs are nifty.  They go on the top portion of the loom, but can be located where ever you need them really.  They have a cutout that fits over each support, once it’s fitted where you want it, an elastic is used to hold it in place.

Cut enough to tie comfortably
Cut enough to tie comfortably

The warping frame on the back is pretty smart.  It’s actually textured pegs, generally used in construction of furniture.  I think the texture is good as it reduces the warps tendency to slip off a peg.  The pegs are on the short side and while they claim to hold 100 to 150 warps, that number is pushing it.  With the sett I normally work with and the size of warp, I will probably look for longer pegs to replace those with soon.  I made a ton of heddles for my first weaving.  These are reusable, making these only once is a blessing.  I’m surprised the warping pegs aren’t spaced to provide the perfect jig for making these heddles.  I used a cork board and T-pins to make a jig.  I’m instructed to cut 10″ and 11″ lengths and tie a knot at the end.  The last thing I want is to have 60 heddles across my weaving – all slightly different lengths.  So I cut one of each size, made a heddle and measured the finished size to know the size to make my jig.  I wrapped my string around the jig, cut leaving enough length to tie a surgeons knot, then an overhand knot just above that, and cut the ends short.  I used Baroque crochet cotton.  Baroque is the most elastic crochet cotton I’ve ever used, it’s “super Mercerized”, color-fast, and has a high twist.  Baroque is strong, smooth and inexpensive.  I’ve seen it in white and Ecru.  On the video, she used Baroque for the warp and heddles, everything but the weft.  I might use the ample amount of left over to try my hand at some Puncetto Avorio, an Italian needle lace – made with only a needle and thread.

Heddles applied to warp.  Heddles Baroque crochet cotton, warp is cotton seine
Heddles applied to warp. Heddles Baroque crochet cotton, warp is cotton seine

The shedding device is unique.  It consists of two narrow hexagonal blocks with two holes.  The heddles are attached to the two heddle rods, and these rods are inserted into the blocks.  These blocks rest on the side supports of the loom held in place by two elastic bands, one on each side.  The shedding device is used by turning the blocks, this raises one half of the warp and lowers the other half.  The center or neutral position keeps one half of the warp only slightly raised.  It clacks a bit when you use it as the blocks are held very tight to the supports by the elastic.  This is why I’m certain I’ll need replacements.  Once these stretch out, the shedding device will be useless unless they’re present and tight.  I wish the blocks had an additional way to stay atop the supports; the supports are narrow and the blocks slip off easy until the bands are properly installed.  If the loom was bumped hard it wouldn’t take much to knock them off.  Perhaps I’ll look for longer pegs to insert into the back for the warping frame and find a way to add something to the supports to prevent them from getting knocked off.  After all, the best thing about smaller weaving projects is their portability.  

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32 Comments on “Kliot Tapestry Loom

    • Thank you. I love this little loom, it was easy to write about. I find the shedding device more useful than I originally thought. It’s hard to pass it up, I’ve spent nearly this much in materials to build other looms.

  1. Okay, so I bought one of these and finally got it warped. I just can’t seem to keep the warp tight no matter how I lace it. Any suggestions?

    • Hi Pam. I do have some suggestions. I found this to be true for myself as well. First the warp rods are way too thin, they bow and bend under constant tension. I plan to cut thicker ones for the next time I warp this loom. I laced mine as tight as I dared, then I used a spare rod I had, and placed it between the top of the loom, but under the warp, between the shedding device and the top. So this tightened the warp

      • Thanks. I will try this and be sure to check my knobs. I hadn’t even though about the knobs loosening. Any new tips you come up with would be appreciated.

        • Yes, I can think of an important tip. When you advance your weaving, be certain it’s even before you re-tension and begin to weave again. If you begin it even, but are 1/4 inch higher on one side when you’re ready to advance, then weave short passes until it’s level. If its higher on one side and you advance your warp, and bring the fell line even, it will come out longer on one side than the other. When you loosen the tension and advance your weaving, it slides side to side and is very easy to torque it also.

  2. I had been looking at this loom and vacillating as to whether or not to purchase. Thank you for the informative review.

  3. I do not want to make long pieces as I am just learning. Do you know how I can warp this loom for say a 12″ by 15″ piece?

    • Hi Mary,
      Thank you for taking the time to visit and comment. You may warp the Kliot Tapestry loom for a 12 X 15. However, I don’t think you will get good use out of the shed device if any. The Kliot Tapestry Loom can weave any width up to 20 inches, although, 18 is more realistic. So a weaving either 12″ or 15″ wide will be no problem. Since you want to warp shorter than the 30″ height of the loom, then you have a couple choices. First, you can simply warp the 30 inches and cut your weaving off when you’re done. Also, you can weave more than one project on a longer warp. If you want to warp for just the size of your project and keep it shorter than the loom, then you would have to attach the warp to a separate bar or dowel – then attach the dowel with the warp to the top beam/dowel of the loom with a thin rope or cord. This would be similar to the way the Navajo loom attaches at the top. As I said, with this shorter warp you won’t get much use of the shedding device. Good luck and feel free to email me at janean@mystichandworks.com


  4. I got one of these for Christmas and after reading some posts I had my husband make me a some wooden holders that you can attached to the blocks so they don’t slip off the frame and still let you shift the blocks as needed. It does mean that there is a screw in the frame but nothing is falling off of it either.

  5. I discovered your site by accident while looking for additional info on the Kliot Tapestry loom. I am hesitating this potential purchase. I own a 24″ Kromski Harp Loom. Technically it is not a tapestry loom, though one can do a tapestry with the Kromski. I’ve only done one tapestry on my loom. Was wondering if working with a tapestry loom might be more advantageous?

    • Hello,
      Thank you for taking the time to write. I like my Kliot Tapestry Loom. However, your Kromski Harp Loom may be sturdier. While I don’t have a Kromski Harp, the ones I’ve seen online appear to be more substantial than the Kliot. Additionally, the shedding device on the Kliot tapestry loom can be problematic, while the Harp’s heddle appears less so. The biggest advantage with the Kliot loom is that you can have a functional medium sized tapestry loom with a minimum investment. The shedding device is balanced on relatively thin wood and held with rubber bands. As such, the shedding device is prone to slipping off. One advantage to the Kliot loom is that it uses string heddles (that you make), so you can load as many string heddles as you want. This makes it versatile to any epi you can weave. Although, I believe you can order heddles with different epi for your Harp. I see no reason why you couldn’t use string heddles with your Kromski Harp. The Navajo use a stick for one shed and a stick with string for a pull or alternate shed. If versatility in epi is what you’re after, this may be an option for you. Any book on Navajo weaving will highlight this feature. The Kliot advertises a 20” weaving width, but 18” is more realistic. While I like the Kliot, I don’t think it will serve you better than your Harp. It might help if I knew what features you were looking for or what changes you would make to your Harp if you could. There may be more options there than you think. BTW, I see on the Woolery’s site, Kromski has a metal ratchet and pawl upgrade for $40, I think that would help with the extra tension tapestry warps are under. One of my spinning wheels is a Kromski. I like the work they put into the products I’ve seen, so far.

      Good luck and keep me posted,

  6. I received mine as a gift and I still haven’t used it yet cause I am having a hard time figuring out how to warp the loom and also to make the little loops. Was wondering if there are any other equipment or tools needed or to use with this loom and what type of string works for the loops in the middle and for the bottom of the loom. Thank you for your post.

    • Hello Lori,
      Here is a video Lacis made for warping their loom. They use Baroque crochet cotton for the warp and to make the heddles. However, any number of yarns will work. For instance, any size 10 crochet cotton will work great for the heddles. For the warp, you will want something strong that doesn’t have a lot of stretch to it, and you will want to aim your warp material according to your project. For example, Navajo weavers typically use a strong multiplied wool warp and many tapestry weavers use cotton seine twine or linen warp. The only items you will need I can think of is perhaps a tapestry beater to beat your weft into place. You may want a book on tapestry weaving as well. Eight warps per inch are most common with a worsted weight weft yarn. The book on tapestry weaving will be your best guide. Nancy Harvey’s, Tapesty Weaving: A Comprehensive Study Guide, and Kirsten Glasbrook’s, Tapestry Weaving are two popular books that I would recommend. Good luck and let me know how your work progresses.

  7. I was wondering if there is another way to wrap the string to the loom if there is please help me. I would like to give this craft a try. Thank you.

    • There are several ways to warp this loom, but I think the one in this video is the most straight forward. I strongly recommend you buy one of the books on Tapestry weaving as it will cover several warping techniques and the hows and whys of tapestry weaving techniques. The fundamentals of tapestry weaving fill a book and are beyond what you can learn by an email or comment on a blog. You can watch Youtube videos on using a warping board (your Kliot loom has one build in on the back with the pegs). Here is a video on winding your warp and a video on warping an Ashford loom. The loom is different from yours, but the basics of winding and warping remain fairly constant. Watch the video from Kliot again along with these other videos and you will have a good idea how to proceed. Writing out instructions for this would be far more complicated than the videos referenced. My advice is to buy the books, watch the videos, and buy some crochet cotton for heddles and warp. If it gets messed up you are only out the few dollars you spent on crochet cotton. The string heddles you make can be used over again indefinitely until they break or wear thin. Research, learn, and then start – that first step is the hardest. Just plan to do this when you’re less likely to be interrupted. Good luck and let me know how your work progresses.

  8. Hi! I just ordered this loom. I watched the video. You can probably use ponytail bands to replace the rubber bands in a pinch. They come in various sizes and can be looped together to make them longer if needed. I used these on a frame loom I made from pvc pipe. I attached a dowel across the frame using these bands and they worked great. I did a continuous warp with just one dowel.

    • Hi Bridget,
      Thanks for taking the time to write. I now have a bag of these rubber bands, but ponytail bands may also work. I could probably tie a stretchy string in place of the rubber bands, too. It sounds like you are off to a great start.

  9. Lots of good information here. I got a small frame loom for Christmas and was looking at cheap options might be available for my next loom.

    Thank you.

    • Carl,
      Your welcome, and thank you for checking out my site. This loom is a nice and inexpensive addition for weavers. I recommend using heavier dowels if you will be adding a lot of tension, and the warping pegs could be longer. I made new warping pegs to better accommodate more warp, but it wasn’t entirely necessary. Do a search for this loom and get it from the most inexpensive place. Jules Kliot of Lacis has a video on warping and using this look.

      Good Luck,

  10. Hello, I got this loom as a present. Having never done any weaving before, I am kind of iffy about starting because I dont know how to end it. I have seen many different ways on videos but am unsure which would be the correct to use. Any suggests would be greatly accepted.

    • Hello Heather. Thank you for taking the time to check out my site and comment. I recommend this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3l_8o7WpQoE. It shows the warping of this loom and its use. One way to end your weaving by tying the two adjoining warp-strings together. Then, of course, you can weave these ends in. You will want to weave a small (1/2 to 1 inch) hem at the beginning and end, and the weaving that will show, in between. If you decide to tie the warps, your weaving will progress in this manner: warp the loom, space the warps properly, and tie the warp strings together with thread in a double hitch or like knot, then weave the hem, then weave what you want to show, then the top hem, and finally either tie the warps in double-half hitches or cut off the loom and tie the warps themselves together. There are many ways to begin and end your weaving, but this is the most straightforward. You will want to research the different ways to do this on YouTube, as this method isn’t appropriate for all applications. I suggest that you make a practice weaving to get the hang of it and the process will become more intuitive. Good Luck, Janean

  11. It’s not the putting together or even the warp board I’m struggling with (and I’m very new to weaving). The video on YouTube moves SO fast (and I keep pausing and rewatching) and it’s not close enough to the hands for me to get a good grasp of (a) bringing the warp threads off without tangling them (but I think I finally got that down) and attaching them with the rubber bands as instructed. I’m trying to find a walk through of photos or videos (or both) on how to do it that’s slower than the YouTube video. That’s actually have I found your post. LOL I bought this one to make rugs / yoga mats. I built a giant wooden frame that I make giant mats on that I’ve used for about a year.

    Do you know anywhere that I can find a photo by photo or very slow video of what to do AFTER I remove the warp from the board?

    • Robin,
      I suggest you read some books on weaving, especially weaving on a rigid heddle. The video the Kliots made was intended to help familiarize weavers with their loom – it’s not a how-to-weave video, per se. While the Kliot loom is not a rigid heddle loom, the warp is attached to the loom in a very similar way. The Kliot loom is a type of tapestry loom, so a beginner tapestry weaving book might be of use to you also. After you have familiarized yourself with that, the video will make a lot more sense.
      Good luck,

  12. Hi,and good morning, I am problems my loops on the kliot weaving loom, please help me to figure out what is wrong, maybe the loops may be too long or what!

    • Hello Gladys,
      I can’t imagine what problems you could be having. If your heddles are too long or too short, that would certainly make weaving difficult. I would need to see pictures of the problems that you’re having. Alternatively, you can also contact the maker of the Kliot loom at their website, Lacis.com. They are helpful regarding the use of their products. They also have a Youtube video on how to use their loom. Good luck.

  13. Dear Janean,
    I have this loom (I’m brand new to weaving) and I’ve tried several times (5 so far) to warp it according to the video, and the guide that comes with the loom. How does one keep track of which side to “cross” the thread on? I always lose count, and the video is so poorly lit and angled that I can’t see well, even up close to my 42 inch TV screen! I think losing my “cross” place may be why I have to start over, and over, etc. I’m using the recommended Baroque yarn (package size says “10”.) I really want to learn this, and I am a very patient person, but I’m getting really frustrated! HELP!!

    • Thank you for writing, John. I assume you are referring to the part of the video where she winds the warp on the back of the loom. Here, she is creating the warp that she will later apply to the front of the loom. It is important to make a “criss-cross” so that when you apply the warp to the front of the loom, the yarn will be separated (top and bottom) and to into their prospective heddles. Pay attention to the warp on the pegs closest to the camera. She is crossing the end peg the same way every time. She winds the warp counterclockwise on the last peg, creating a cross. When I count, I count all the threads. I first determine how wide I want the weaving and how many warp threads I need to accommodate my project. Then there should be that many threads when I wind my warp. The cross simply divides my warp into the threads that will be placed into heddle one and heddle two. The methods she uses to wind her warp, dress her loom, and weave are basic components of rigid heddle weaving. If you buy a book on rigid heddle weaving, it will clear up a lot of what you can’t see on her video. There are books at the library if you prefer not to invest more money. Read a small how-to book on rigid heddle weaving and try again. Don’t quit. Once you wrap your mind around it, you’ll love it. Sometimes, I place a scrap of contrast yarn over the warp every 10 threads to that I don’t have to recount as I too lose count of my warp threads. It’s more important to pay attention to crossing over the same way every time as you can wind more or take some off easier than to change the order of the warp when you’re dressing the loom. Good luck and keep me updated.

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